What we really enjoy is relief from the discomfort of needing a “fix” i.e. we smoke because we it removes the “pain “of NOT smoking. The pain has stopped so that’s interpreted as “pleasure” or “enjoyment”.
Can you remember the first time you had a cigarette? The taste has been described as “licking an ash tray”. As smokers we are so used to the taste of burned paper and tobacco that we really don’t “taste” the cigarette any more.